C O N T E N T S :
D O N G G U K U N I V E R S I T Y
Y A N G D O N G V I L L A G E
I . B R E A K F A S T
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| Breakfast at Hongbeopsa... |
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| ...incredible, as usual. |
S E E I N G T H I S makes me powerfully nostalgic and reminds me just how special each and every breakfast at Hongbeopsa was. Of course it was incredible simply to be staying at a Korean temple, especially one as lively and enticing as Hongbeopsa, but the temple offered much more than its atmosphere and allure alone. Consider the food, for example: The variety of dishes, textures, tastes, and smells that greeted us each morning in the dining hall added intrigue to the act of breaking one's fast, while the knowledge that each incredible option had been produced by volunteers and was given freely to monk and muggle alike humbled us greatly. The food, therefore, sustained both body and soul, and reminded us that we were incredibly lucky to be in such a privileged position.
Yet the food was just the foundation-- it was the fellowship that truly made each early morning something worth waking up to. You never knew who to expect in the dining hall at dawn-- did my fellow students and travelers roll out of bed, or would I be eating alone? Were the monks off attending to business or were they occupying their reserved table at the front of the hall, waiting to be served special dishes colored by fruit and fresh salad? Or had an army of visitors snuck in while I slumbered, making it hard to find a place to sit and flooding the room with the delightful sounds of the Korean language? Whatever the case, Hongbeopsa's dining hall was always overflowing with intrigue.
Click below to read more!
Dr. Yi, the incredible Comparative Literature professor I was traveling with, was a particularly outstanding part of this community. Loved by everyone regardless of their affiliation, she regularly captivated everyone in earshot--and sometimes the entire hall!--with stories from her experiences and her studies. This was not only a testament to her respected place in the Hongbeopsa family-- it also showed what a great orator and intriguing individual she is.
On this morning, for example, Dr. Yi wowed us with the tale of a huge Korean stem-cell research scandal involving Catholic funding, US business and academic ties, government corruption, and international intrigue. She tied it to Catholocism's unique spread to Korea, Korea's history of invasion and the damage it's done to Korean cultural heritage, and the fact that a French aristocrat is hoarding a precious Korean Buddhist text. Each morning, we were treated to another lucid, accessible, and infinitely enlightening talk on topics including Buddhism, philosophy, history, International Relations, social justice, and all sorts of fascinating related topics. Shout-out to you, Dr. Yi-- if I can achieve a fraction of your awesomeness in my lifetime, it'll be a great success.
T O D A Y ' S B R E A K F A S T was interrupted by a newsbreak ABOUT HOW OUR BABY MONKS WON A NATIONAL SOCCER TOURNAMENT IN HONOR OF BUDDHA'S BIRTHDAY!! I managed to catch some of it on film before heading out to play with the little rascals themselves. Here's a video of my morning with the ever-adorable Baby Monks!
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A F T E R F O O D A N D F U N , I found myself speeding past the Korean countryside in a Hongbeopsa van, hungrily absorbing everything I saw. Our destination was to be Dongguk University, a famous Korean institution with a strong Buddhist monk college; our day was to include a tour of their campus, followed by a trip to a local UNESCO World Heritage Site, Yangdong Village.
D O N G G U K U N I V E R S I T Y was a decent jaunt down the road, so our driver graciously broke up the trip with a stop at a Korean Rest Area. This was only our second visit to such a place, and because our first was after our flight in and in the dead of night, I was excited to have a second chance to take in a place like this.
I T H A T E D M E . While others bought food or drink at the various vendors' stalls, I turned to a vending machine which offered Pokeballs for just a few won. Pokemon is something that my brother and I have a long history of enjoying together, so I thought I'd buy one for him... but of course I had no coins, which was all the machine would take.
After waiting for quite some time to get change (while sweating bullets for fear of being left behind by my group), I made my way back to the machine, dropped in my won, and turned the crank... And nothing happened. I laughed, looked around, shook the thing, and after accepting my fate, I decided to try again... only to be ripped off again!
I SPENT LIKE $5 USD TRYING TO GET A STUPID KNICK KNACK AND CAME BACK EMPTY-HANDED! I couldn't help but laugh at myself and my luck. It was going to be such a perfect gift... and it turned into such a universal experience of vending machine disappointment. Turns out Korean vending machines steal money too!
O N E T H I N G I was interested in observing on my trip to Asia was how each culture dealt with race, and up until this point in my Korean visit, I hadn't seen a single sign of Korea's approach. Of course my ignorant, foreign eye was not attuned to the internal differences between Koreans that undoubtedly existed, and I realize that it is unfair of me to imply that the "Koreans" I saw and talked with belonged to some monolithic group, but it is not unfair of me to note the lack of diversity I observed-- from the people on the street to the faces on TV and the pictures on billboards and adverts, people overwhelmingly (a.k.a. always) looked "Korean." It was not until later in my visit that I began to meet people who were NOT "Korean"-- Indians, Cambodians, Myanma, and Thai, to name a few. Korean pop culture simply didn't seem to care to depict "minorities".
It saddened me that the first "foreigners" or "minorities" I saw depicted were Black, and that their images were used in conjunction with an apparently faith-based fundraiser ad. That Black images were not prevalent in other aspects of Korea's mediated culture but were used to garner donations seemed to send strange messages to me, but of course this comes from a superficial reading of the situation. I digress, but not without implicating this image as a vessel for considering Korean race relations.
Yet the food was just the foundation-- it was the fellowship that truly made each early morning something worth waking up to. You never knew who to expect in the dining hall at dawn-- did my fellow students and travelers roll out of bed, or would I be eating alone? Were the monks off attending to business or were they occupying their reserved table at the front of the hall, waiting to be served special dishes colored by fruit and fresh salad? Or had an army of visitors snuck in while I slumbered, making it hard to find a place to sit and flooding the room with the delightful sounds of the Korean language? Whatever the case, Hongbeopsa's dining hall was always overflowing with intrigue.
Click below to read more!
Dr. Yi, the incredible Comparative Literature professor I was traveling with, was a particularly outstanding part of this community. Loved by everyone regardless of their affiliation, she regularly captivated everyone in earshot--and sometimes the entire hall!--with stories from her experiences and her studies. This was not only a testament to her respected place in the Hongbeopsa family-- it also showed what a great orator and intriguing individual she is.
On this morning, for example, Dr. Yi wowed us with the tale of a huge Korean stem-cell research scandal involving Catholic funding, US business and academic ties, government corruption, and international intrigue. She tied it to Catholocism's unique spread to Korea, Korea's history of invasion and the damage it's done to Korean cultural heritage, and the fact that a French aristocrat is hoarding a precious Korean Buddhist text. Each morning, we were treated to another lucid, accessible, and infinitely enlightening talk on topics including Buddhism, philosophy, history, International Relations, social justice, and all sorts of fascinating related topics. Shout-out to you, Dr. Yi-- if I can achieve a fraction of your awesomeness in my lifetime, it'll be a great success.
T O D A Y ' S B R E A K F A S T was interrupted by a newsbreak ABOUT HOW OUR BABY MONKS WON A NATIONAL SOCCER TOURNAMENT IN HONOR OF BUDDHA'S BIRTHDAY!! I managed to catch some of it on film before heading out to play with the little rascals themselves. Here's a video of my morning with the ever-adorable Baby Monks!
I I . T O D O N G G U K U N I V E R S I T Y
View Larger Map
A F T E R F O O D A N D F U N , I found myself speeding past the Korean countryside in a Hongbeopsa van, hungrily absorbing everything I saw. Our destination was to be Dongguk University, a famous Korean institution with a strong Buddhist monk college; our day was to include a tour of their campus, followed by a trip to a local UNESCO World Heritage Site, Yangdong Village.
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| Rice paddies and mountains ERRYWHERE |
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| It's the Yimobile! (If you look closely enough, you can see her in the passenger's seat) |
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| D: |
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| "Metal, Technology, and Human"-- is it still called "Engrish" even if it's in Korea? |
D O N G G U K U N I V E R S I T Y was a decent jaunt down the road, so our driver graciously broke up the trip with a stop at a Korean Rest Area. This was only our second visit to such a place, and because our first was after our flight in and in the dead of night, I was excited to have a second chance to take in a place like this.
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| A Rest Stop during the day! |
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| Adorable advertising at one of the vendors' stalls, and some of the only English in the place. |
After waiting for quite some time to get change (while sweating bullets for fear of being left behind by my group), I made my way back to the machine, dropped in my won, and turned the crank... And nothing happened. I laughed, looked around, shook the thing, and after accepting my fate, I decided to try again... only to be ripped off again!
I SPENT LIKE $5 USD TRYING TO GET A STUPID KNICK KNACK AND CAME BACK EMPTY-HANDED! I couldn't help but laugh at myself and my luck. It was going to be such a perfect gift... and it turned into such a universal experience of vending machine disappointment. Turns out Korean vending machines steal money too!
 |
| The first depiction of Black people I'd seen yet! |
O N E T H I N G I was interested in observing on my trip to Asia was how each culture dealt with race, and up until this point in my Korean visit, I hadn't seen a single sign of Korea's approach. Of course my ignorant, foreign eye was not attuned to the internal differences between Koreans that undoubtedly existed, and I realize that it is unfair of me to imply that the "Koreans" I saw and talked with belonged to some monolithic group, but it is not unfair of me to note the lack of diversity I observed-- from the people on the street to the faces on TV and the pictures on billboards and adverts, people overwhelmingly (a.k.a. always) looked "Korean." It was not until later in my visit that I began to meet people who were NOT "Korean"-- Indians, Cambodians, Myanma, and Thai, to name a few. Korean pop culture simply didn't seem to care to depict "minorities".
It saddened me that the first "foreigners" or "minorities" I saw depicted were Black, and that their images were used in conjunction with an apparently faith-based fundraiser ad. That Black images were not prevalent in other aspects of Korea's mediated culture but were used to garner donations seemed to send strange messages to me, but of course this comes from a superficial reading of the situation. I digress, but not without implicating this image as a vessel for considering Korean race relations.
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| A gorgeous toll gate on our way to Dongguk University! |
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| My Korean friend joked that these dogs were for dinner... only I don't know if she was joking or not :( They certainly didn't belong to the same caste as other dogs I'd seen based on their crowded and caged nature. |
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| Finally, we arrived! |
D O N G G U K ' S G Y E O N G J U campus is really really nice! Both very modern and very large in a pretty ubiquitous way. For my UGA brethren, that building we're walking towards in the picture above could easily be the cousin of the S/MLC or Tate II in just about every way (architecture/aesthetic, use, space, etc.). The campus itself was therefore comforting and welcoming-- just as a vending machine is still a vending machine in Korea, so too is a university.
Our tour guide, the Dean of Students, was an incredibly sociable and comedic fellow who, with his crew of ~12 student ambassadors, greeted us and showed us around the campus. We learned that Dongguk's first campus, in Seoul, was established in 1906; the school has since spread all around Korea as well as the world, and prides itself in being as cosmopolitan as the ancient Silla Dynasty which occupied its lands thousands of years before.
Dongguk is intriguing because it offers a standard array of undergraduate degrees plus some fascinating Buddhist specialties-- as a "monk college," it was not uncommon to see undergrads walking around in monk's robes or coming back from the gorgeous temple we visited later. As Dr. Yi described, "most" Buddhist monks have an undergraduate degree-- they aren't complete social exiles. Dongguk is one of the places they can study, whether their interest lies in Biology or Buddhism. The Dean also explained that Dongguk would be opening a Meditation program soon, which I gathered to be rather rare. It was one of many interesting ways that Dongguk straddles the past and the future, tying both together in the present.
W E W E R E shown around the International Studies department and the University President's office in turn. I was very impressed with their International Affairs department-- it was full of lively, diverse, and interesting students who were eager to talk to us in broken English about our shared interests. Their department seemed to have far more community than ours does at UGA; we don't have a bulletin board like the one above, a department filled with interesting students, OR a building to ourself! But I digress. Our next stop was the President's office, where we were treated to delicious drinks and conversation, and were given a gift bag-- Dongguk's hospitality was impressively flattering!
N E X T , we ventured past the gorgeous lotus pond and on to the university's Buddhist temple.
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| Dongguk's super swanky logo |
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| Dongguk's lobby// a shrine to a famous religious/historical figure, the Golden Prince, who went to China, became Enlightened, and brought that back to Korea |
Dongguk is intriguing because it offers a standard array of undergraduate degrees plus some fascinating Buddhist specialties-- as a "monk college," it was not uncommon to see undergrads walking around in monk's robes or coming back from the gorgeous temple we visited later. As Dr. Yi described, "most" Buddhist monks have an undergraduate degree-- they aren't complete social exiles. Dongguk is one of the places they can study, whether their interest lies in Biology or Buddhism. The Dean also explained that Dongguk would be opening a Meditation program soon, which I gathered to be rather rare. It was one of many interesting ways that Dongguk straddles the past and the future, tying both together in the present.
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| WHY DOES SPIA NOT HAVE ONE OF THESE?! |
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| The President's office! |
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| Beautiful calligraphy in teh office |
N E X T , we ventured past the gorgeous lotus pond and on to the university's Buddhist temple.
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| Lotii! |
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| Entering Dongguk's shrine |
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| Altar to Buddha (the golden lotus sculpture holds pieces of Buddha!) |
T H E T H O U G H T of a Buddhist shrine on a university campus was interesting from my secular Western background, but upon reflection, UGA itself has a slew of churches on or near campus. Still, the divide between religion and the university seemed more permeable and amenable at Dongguk than it does in the States.
Dongguk's shrine is particularly special because it holds very important Buddhist relics-- specifically, the small golden lotus sculpture on the altar in the picture above is said to contain fragments of the Buddha himself. Called Śarīra, these gem-like objects are said to survive the fires of cremation that every deceased Buddhist is ritualistically returned to. In the temple, we held a small ceremony before viewing Buddha's Śarīra one by one. It was an incredibly powerful experience.
The last part of our tour was a stop by Dongguk's incredible gong, pictured below. This gong is said to spread Enlightenment through the universe with its ring, so several of us took turns ringing it. The detail and craftsmanship were breathtaking!
W E A T E in Dongguk's cafeteria, which was another distance-transcendent experience. A vending machine is a vending machine, a university is a university, and its cafeteria is... a cafeteria! Only this cafeteria served a lot of super-spicy, super-Korean food-- I was DYIN' for water after the first bite!
U N F O R T U N A T E L Y , I ended up sitting with my travelmates. This is of course not an affront to them; because they know I love them! Instead, this is my frustration at my inability to connect with the Dongguk students! As I said, there was a cohort of students who were walking around with us. They were about our age, studied similar things, and were impressively good at English, but for whatever reason, things just didn't seem to work out. It felt to me like an arranged marriage of sorts-- the students didn't seem too excited to be forced to socialize with us, and we were a bit overwhelmed with new places, things, and information to really be able to focus on hanging out and being ourselves (or at least I was).
The best example of this was a "dance-off" that never actually happened between our group and theirs. I almost wish I'd taken pictures or video, but it was an incredibly uncomfortable, contrived, and awkward situation-- it was more of a lack than it was a thing, which meant there wasn't much to document. It began when the Dean of Students noticed that three of his students had broken off from the group and were chillin' off by themselves, smoking, drinking Pepsi, and listening to dubstep on one of their spacephones. I think the Dean guilted them about skipping class and not following through with their commitment to us as visitors because suddenly he was putting them up to choreographing and performing a dance to their dubstep. It was painfully obvious that they were painfully uncomfortable, and we spent the next 10 minutes going back and forth-- it'd seem like they were about to do it just to get it over with, but then they'd laugh it off, too cool to put themselves out there like that in front of cultural strangers.
At some point, Dr. Yi volunteered us to perform, too, which amounted to throwing us under the bus and relegating us to a similar state of discomfort. I can't really remember what happened-- probably because I blocked it out of my head or something-- but I believe we ended up doing the Macarena for the other students, and they ended up doing nothing in return? Whatever the case, it was extremely uncomfortable for everyone involved, and I haven't the slightest idea why! On one hand, it makes sense-- we don't know each other, we don't know social cues and norms, and we didn't want to look dumb in front of our international peers. These things make sense. Yet at the same time there was a degree of innocence to our interactions, a lack of self-consciousness that comes from stepping out of one's comfort zone but knowing that others are just as uncomfortable and vulnerable as you.
The (non) dance-off was a horrendous failure, but put into perspective a slew of fascinating social dynamics. These dynamics persisted across all of our interactions that day, whether we were on our guided tour, in the cafeteria, or outside, being forced to dance by our superiors. I really wanted things to work out between us and them, but there seemed to be too much inertia against it and not enough interest or motivation to overcome it. It was fascinating, but also uncomfortable as hell.
Dongguk's shrine is particularly special because it holds very important Buddhist relics-- specifically, the small golden lotus sculpture on the altar in the picture above is said to contain fragments of the Buddha himself. Called Śarīra, these gem-like objects are said to survive the fires of cremation that every deceased Buddhist is ritualistically returned to. In the temple, we held a small ceremony before viewing Buddha's Śarīra one by one. It was an incredibly powerful experience.
The last part of our tour was a stop by Dongguk's incredible gong, pictured below. This gong is said to spread Enlightenment through the universe with its ring, so several of us took turns ringing it. The detail and craftsmanship were breathtaking!
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| GORGEOUS good-luck gong |
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| Detail-- SUPER BEAUTIFUL |
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| MIND-BOGGLING MINI-BIKE |
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| Lunch at Dongguk |
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| THIS DRINK WAS SOOOOOOO GOOOOOOD! A strange liquid-yogurt vitamin/supplement drink, aka MAGIC IN A BOTTLE. Definitely helped my overspiced mouth... FOR A SECOND |
U N F O R T U N A T E L Y , I ended up sitting with my travelmates. This is of course not an affront to them; because they know I love them! Instead, this is my frustration at my inability to connect with the Dongguk students! As I said, there was a cohort of students who were walking around with us. They were about our age, studied similar things, and were impressively good at English, but for whatever reason, things just didn't seem to work out. It felt to me like an arranged marriage of sorts-- the students didn't seem too excited to be forced to socialize with us, and we were a bit overwhelmed with new places, things, and information to really be able to focus on hanging out and being ourselves (or at least I was).
The best example of this was a "dance-off" that never actually happened between our group and theirs. I almost wish I'd taken pictures or video, but it was an incredibly uncomfortable, contrived, and awkward situation-- it was more of a lack than it was a thing, which meant there wasn't much to document. It began when the Dean of Students noticed that three of his students had broken off from the group and were chillin' off by themselves, smoking, drinking Pepsi, and listening to dubstep on one of their spacephones. I think the Dean guilted them about skipping class and not following through with their commitment to us as visitors because suddenly he was putting them up to choreographing and performing a dance to their dubstep. It was painfully obvious that they were painfully uncomfortable, and we spent the next 10 minutes going back and forth-- it'd seem like they were about to do it just to get it over with, but then they'd laugh it off, too cool to put themselves out there like that in front of cultural strangers.
At some point, Dr. Yi volunteered us to perform, too, which amounted to throwing us under the bus and relegating us to a similar state of discomfort. I can't really remember what happened-- probably because I blocked it out of my head or something-- but I believe we ended up doing the Macarena for the other students, and they ended up doing nothing in return? Whatever the case, it was extremely uncomfortable for everyone involved, and I haven't the slightest idea why! On one hand, it makes sense-- we don't know each other, we don't know social cues and norms, and we didn't want to look dumb in front of our international peers. These things make sense. Yet at the same time there was a degree of innocence to our interactions, a lack of self-consciousness that comes from stepping out of one's comfort zone but knowing that others are just as uncomfortable and vulnerable as you.
The (non) dance-off was a horrendous failure, but put into perspective a slew of fascinating social dynamics. These dynamics persisted across all of our interactions that day, whether we were on our guided tour, in the cafeteria, or outside, being forced to dance by our superiors. I really wanted things to work out between us and them, but there seemed to be too much inertia against it and not enough interest or motivation to overcome it. It was fascinating, but also uncomfortable as hell.
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| A glimpse of Dongguk's student uniony place on our way out of the Cafeteria |
I I I . Y A N G D O N G V I L L A G E
A F T E R O U R tour of Dongguk University and an exploration of the awkwardness of forced international friendship, we, along with the Dean of Students and a smaller number of Dongguk student ambassadors, squeezed into a pair of vans and took off for Yangdong Village which, as it turns out, is extremely difficult to photograph! |
| A picture of Yangdong Village, stolen from Wikipedia. It's hard to capture!! |
Y A N G D O N G V I L L A G E is a ~600 year old UNESCO World Heritage Site, meaning it is renowned by the UN for its significance to human culture. The President of Dongguk described Yangdong as a "museum without walls," but unlike a museum, its culture is not just on display, it is alive. What struck me most about Yangdong village is that people still live in it-- it wasn't just a shell, a hollowed-out tourist trap; it was a community of modern people (not reinactors!) living in buildings that were over half a millennium old!
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| The approach to Yangdong Village |
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| One must cross by Yangdong's rice paddies before entering the village |
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| A group of less-foreign tourists watches our approach to the village |
A N O T H E R A S P E C T of Yangdong's magnificence is its depiction of the higherarchy of Joseon Dynasty Korea, as well as the geomancy of Korean civic planning. Yangdong is built in concentric rings around a hill, with the nobles at the top in the fanciest houses, and the peasants at the bottom in the dingiest shacks, visibly illustrating the cleavages in historical society. The King lived at the very top, with nobles, bureaucrats, and soldiers on the second tier; the third contained farmers and peasants; the 4th, artisans; the 5th merchants; and the 6th slaves, itinerant artists, and monks. Dr. Yi explained that this illustrates the Daoist/Chinese influence on Korean culture at the time-- just as in China, farmers are respected as nobles because of their role in sustaining the society. The (pure) Nobles reserve the top of the village and of society for themselves, but respect the Farmer's authority over food as well as the Artisan's utility in equipping and maintaining the tools of the Farmer, and therefore give to them positions of honor in civil life.
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| An example of the bottom rung of the socioeconomic ladder |
C O N T R A S T T H E picture above of a low-class citizen's residence with the following pictures, which depict a "middle-class" lifestyle followed by an "upper-class" abode, respectively.
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| A depiction of the middle ranks of Yangdong's higherarchy |
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| And finally an upper-tier structure. The tiled roofs were reserved for those of particular import. (Note: I believe this was a school house, but is clearly fancy nonetheless). |
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| Here you can see multiple social orders ascending the hill, denoted in part by the quality of their roofing. |
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| Another shot for perspective. |
W I T H A mountain behind it, and a river and open land in front of it, Yangdong illustrates traditional Korean civic planning-- this arrangement, besides tying in intimately to the energies of the land around it, makes practical use of the sun for growing and the mountain for shade in the summer, while also offering protection from invasion.
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| Rice paddies as far as the eye could see, framed by mountains-- a truly gorgeous sight (note the car-- a reminder that I was not ACTUALLY in the 1400s, despite the historical architecture). |
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| A heron searches for dinner. My mother loves herons, so I tried to capture each one I saw to share with her. |
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| A pair of lotuses in the heron's pond |
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| One of the many visual pleasures of Yangdong Village |
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| A glimpse at a nicer/somewhat-updated residence. |
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| This tree twisted its way through the rock wall-- talk about a testament to tenacity! |
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| The Dean of Students shares a private moment with a tree many times his elder. |
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| The group channels the Ki from a famous Korean scholar's birthplace |
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| An incredible historical tree-- hundreds and hundreds of years old. |
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| A view from afar of a noble's entryway, as well as the impressive landscaping around it. |
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| I have no idea what this device is, but it's awesome-- and awesomely Korean. |
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| I received no explanation of this, but Hayes and I joked that it was a traditional Joseon-Dynasty burial mound, depicting hundreds of years of cultural heritage (including piping and a mangled desk chair, of course). |
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| Self-portrait with Andrew |
T H E L A S T stop on our tour of Yangdong village was a family's home which functioned as a guesthouse/restaurant of sorts. There, to round out or traditional Yangdong experience, we were offered a host of traditional and tasty dishes while enjoying (or at least trying to enjoy) Makoli-- Korean rice wine. Enjoy the images!
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| Impressive garden!! |
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| Dr. Yi explains about this gorgeous and ancient lantern. |
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| The crew assembles outside. Note how tall everyone is compared to the doorways! |
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| Inside the house |
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| Yi smiles in anticipation as the group waits for foodz. |
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| The exposed-beam architecture Yangdong is famous for, as well as the owner's impressive collection of significant rocks. |
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| Larger plate in the background: A leek and tentacle fritter of sorts; a favorite of Dr. Yi's. Foreground: SUPER SALTY TINY FISH-THINGS |
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| DELICIOUS AND BEAUTIFUL ICED NOODLES |
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| Koreans love their kitchen scissors-- and use them for just about everything! :D SNIP SNIP GO THE BEAUTIUFL NOODLES! |
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| On our way out, we saw a new building being constructed using traditional techniques, if nontraditional machinery. |
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| IS THAT REALLY...?! |
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| Yes, I suppose it is! Educational DMZ-themed bottling?! WHAAAAAT?! |
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i would love to hear any thoughts, comments, questions, concerns, or feedback of any form or fashion you may feel inspired to leave me.
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i e b
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